It depends.  Puppies need more than a full-grown dog.  Less active dogs need less than a high energy ball chasing dog.  Like humans, dogs’ metabolisms vary. Check out a Guide to Feeding Raw Food to Puppies and How Much to Feed the Adult Dog.

A common misconception people have in regards to raw feeding is that it is unsafe and carries a higher risk of food borne illness from bacteria for dogs and people. Handling raw meat and vegetables (yes, even vegetables!) will always come with a risk whether it’s for our dinner or for our pups. We aim to share with you seven tips that will help in preventing food borne illness and keep you and your dog safe while feeding raw.

1. Wash your hands!

We begin with the most obvious and the theme of 2020. One of the most effective ways you can prevent illness due to bacteria is washing your hands regularly.

Wash your hands after:

• You serve their food
• Feed treats
• Handle their empty bowls
• Remove food from wrapping
• After you pick up their poop or old bones
• After they lick you (especially if they have just eaten)

Below is an outline on proper hand washing technique from the Government of Canada website.

1. Remove jewellery such as rings
2. Wet hands up to the wrists
3. Apply enough soap to cover hands
4. Work soap under fingernails and around and between joints and fingers for a minimum of 20 seconds
5. Rinse off all lather with water
6. Dry hands with a clean cloth or paper towel – take special care to dry thoroughly between fingers
7. Turn off the tap with a paper towel or cloth

2. Designate

Designate utensils and air tight container to be used only for the raw dog food.  Keep these items separate from the other kitchen items you use on a regular basis, even when clean. This will prevent others from accidentally using them for human consumption purposes.

Make sure other family members in your house know what is designated for raw dog food. You could even go as far as labelling the items so there is no confusion and for people who may look after your dog(s).

Wash these items seperate from your other dishes. I like to leave them to the very end or I will add to the dishwasher and run the sanitize option.

Replace utensils and containers when they start to show signs of wear and tear, especially if using plastic containers or untesils. Some signs to replace your tools: lid doesn’t fit properly, surface is no longer smooth and has scratches or indents in it, you’re using something plastic that is over 10 years old.

3. Feed your dog pre & probiotics

Dogs have evolved to eat raw meat and handle the bacteria that comes with it. When you feed a whole food diet that is biologically appropriate, your dog’s body is able to function the way it’s meant to.

With a raw diet, you are ensuring that their stomach and intestinal tract has lower PH levels- making the stomach environment more acidic – which allows them to properly break down the food and bone they eat. High acid levels also slows the growth of bad bacteria in their body.

Feeding kibble can deplete your dogs ability to fight against harmful bacteria by raising the PH levels in your dogs stomach making it less acidic. The less acidic their stomach, the higher the risk bacteria like Salmonella can survive and cause upset in your dog. This is why I recommend Apple Cider Vinegar when you are transitioning from kibble to raw – the ACV helps bring your dog’s PH levels down and in turn helps them properly digest and absorb nutrients from their food.

Another way to amp up your dogs bacteria fighting power? Feed pre & probiotics. This is especially important if your dog is new to raw, on antibiotics, or if you are feeding a mix of kibble and raw together. Building up your dogs good bacteria (probiotics) helps push out the bad bacteria and allows their immune system to function properly. With a properly functioning immune system, they are better able to fight off any bad bacteria that may make it through their digestive process.

Prebiotics is food for your probiotics. When you feed probiotics, you want to ensure you are also including prebiotics in their diet to help the good bacteria grow and flourish. Find probiotics in our store here.

4. Clear your surface

Before feeding or unwrapping a new tube of food, make sure to clear your surface removing any human food or dishes to prevent cross contamination.  You never know when you might have a piece of food go rogue and you lose track of where it went. Try to keep note of any small pieces and clean them up immediately.

After feeding, wash all surfaces, utensils used, and dishes. The utensils and dishes can go into your dishwasher if you are running it that night – I would suggest using the sanitize cycle when you do. Otherwise, clean the dishes using hot soapy water.

Wipe down your surfaces first with a cloth using hot soapy water followed by a disinfectant wipe down. Disinfectants loose their efficacy when it comes into contact with items like food or dirt which is why it’s important to wipe down the surface before the disinfectant wipe down.

Natural anti-bacterial products include distilled white vinegar, fresh lemon juice, or hydrogen peroxide. There is a wide array of recipes online if you do a search or you can stick to Lysol wipes. One DIY disinfectant spray recipe I recommend is from Wellness Mama.

5. Who is feeding your pets

Until they are old enough to understand and follow proper feeding and cleaning protocol, children should be on the sidelines for feedings. For my little, I ask her to watch from a distance when I am feeding the dogs. My dogs get so excited around dinner time, it’s best not to have too many bodies around.

As soon as your dog(s) are done eating, remove the dish, clean, and store where they are out of reach from the children. Discourage children from playing with the water dish. Setting those boundaries from the very beginning limits possible contamination and provides safe spaces for your dogs when littles are around so they don’t feel the need to protect what they feel is theirs.

Observe the same safety tips as you would when preparing raw meat for your own dinner. Clean the area, wash your hands.

I personally don’t allow dogs to lick us at any time but especially after feeding. If your dog has a long beard you want to take and extra step of precaution, you could give them a good wipe after eating. I’ve personally don’t wipe the dogs and have not had any issues, but it’s another safety measure you could consider.

6. Freeze until ready to use

As soon as you are able to after your box of Dog’s Choice(Doggy Moggy) is delivered, put the food in the freezer until ready to use.

According to the Government of Canada website, temperatures between 4 °C (40 °F) to 60 °C (140 °F) are considered a “danger zone” where bacteria can grow quickly. The ideal temperatures are 4 °C (40 °F) or lower for the fridge and your freezer at -18 °C (0 °F) or lower.

Keep the dog food separate from other items in your freezer or fridge. If you are able to keep the food in the original box, do so. If not, use bags to provide separation from other food items.

Thawing the dog food completely in the fridge is the ideal method to ensure the highest level of safety. Since dogs are better able handle higher bacteria loads than humans, leaving the dog food on the counter to kickstart the process is acceptable. I suggest thawing on the counter until it is partially thawed, then move to the fridge. We don’t recommend leaving out overnight or for long periods of time. Bacteria thrives at room temperature.

Raw dog food that has been thawed in the fridge should be consumed by your dogs within 3-5 days. If it’s been thawed on the counter for a period time, the food should be fed within 2-3 days. Raw dog food can be stored for 6 – 12 months in the freezer. Ideally the food would be consumed within 6 months to ensure quality is maintained.

7. DO NOT wash raw meat.

Wash all produce before serving and do not wash raw meat.  Salmonella can come from a variety of sources, not just meat. This includes vegetables and fruit. Before you prepare vegetables or fruit for your dogs make sure to wash all vegetables under running water and dry with paper towel. All pre-cut or blended vegetables & fruit should be kept refrigerated until use as bacteria thrives in warmer temperatures.

Raw meat should not be washed. I didn’t know this was a thing until I started doing research, but apparently this is something people do. Washing raw meat can increase the risk of cross contamination. Especially with our dog food where there is a little extra blood than the chicken for your dinner; washing could spread that blood and bacteria onto your counters.

Source Article: https://granddog.ca/blogs/news/raw-dog-food-safety-101-7-tips-to-keep-you-and-your-dog-safe

Yes, you can.

When switching an adult dog to a new diet, especially one who has been on a kibble diet for many years, we recommend doing a gradual transition. The guide below will explain why a slow introduction is beneficial, provide a step by step guide on how to complete the process, and how much to feed your adult dog. Let’s get started!

1. ASSESS WEIGHT BEFORE STARTING

Before your dog starts their new diet, we suggest weighing your dog first. There are two reasons for this. First the recommended feeding quantity is based on your dog’s weight. Second, it allows you to determine a baseline for their weight. When you have a baseline to start with, it makes it easier to be in tune with their weight and notice when they have gained/lost weight. Before starting raw, ask yourself: are they a healthy weight or do they need to lose/gain? Answer yourself honestly and then allow that to inform your decision when determining how much food to feed.

In addition to weighing them, you can also assess their weight with the following questions. Can their ribs be felt? Does the belly tuck up when seen from the side? Do they have a visible waist when looking from above? These are all indicators of a healthy weight. I would suggest assessing your dog regularily. Weight gain can start to creep up on us if we aren’t paying attention and excessive weight gain can predispose your dog to health conditions like diabetes, arthritis, breathing issues. It is also hard on your dogs joints. Keeping your dog at a consistent, ideal weight is crucial for their quality and longevity of life.

2. DETERMINE HOW MUCH TO FEED

When deciding how much to feed your dog, think in terms of guidelines not rules. The amount you feed is dynamic and should be tailored to the phase of life your dog is in. The amounts we share here are not set in stone and should be used as a baseline to determine what is the best for for your dog right now.

Variables that would require an adjustment of food would be:
– pregnancy/nursing
– health status
– medication
– activity levels
– Weather changes (especially if they are outdoors most of the time)
– weight loss or gain

My dog, Philly, for example, tends to fluctuate in weight ever since she had puppies. I am always watching her weight and adjusting when needed. Doozer on the other hand has been at a consistent weight since he reached adulthood.

For our food, we recommend feeding dogs over a year old 1% – 2% of a dogs body weight per day based on their activity level. This is what we find works on average for most of our clients.

Inactive – A dog that spends most of their time indoors with smaller bursts of activity and walks for maximum a half hour a day. These dogs will fall on the lower end of the scale and should start at 1%.

Average – A dog that gets an hour to a couple hours of exercise everyday can start at 1% to 1.5%.

Active – An active dog spends most of their time outside with activity filling most of their day. They are dogs who enjoy lots of hiking, biking, and playing with their humans. These dogs would have food intake at 1.5% to 2% of their weight.
For dogs who require weight loss, calculate the percentage based on their ideal weight not their current weight. Start at the higher range (2%) and see what results are yielded from that. If you don’t see any changes, you may need to drop down further. Once you reach their ideal weight, make sure to adjust as needed and appropriate for their activity level.

We need to be honest about our dog’s activity level and be mindful of where they are in life, adjusting their food intake accordingly. These are the same principles we apply to our own food intake and weight management as dog owners. Feeding amounts require attention and being intentional to keep ourselves and our dogs healthy.

This recommendation is not for puppies or pregnant/nursing dogs. For how much to feed puppies, check out our Guide to Feeding Raw to Puppies.

3. INTRODUCE SLOWLY

As mentioned in the introduction, dogs over a year old and have only ever eaten kibble, should have a slow transition to the diet. While some raw feeders will tell you to never mix the two foods, I believe that in the case of transitioning it’s important to in order to give your dogs body and mind time to adjust.

After eating kibble for a long period of time, your dogs body is used to a diet with high starch and low quality protein. In order for kibble to bind it needs at least 30% starch included; some have as much as 60%. This is a lot when you consider the fact that dogs have little biologic need for starch in their diet. Raw diets have as little as 0-15% starch. Raw is also made up of real sources of protein rather than protein mixed with a whole lot of plant protein. Because of the varying composition kibble and raw, the foods are digested differently in the body making it important ease into the new diet.

You also want to take into consideration that your dog’s mindset needs time to adjust to the new way of eating. Some dogs can be stuck in their ways and when there is a drastic change to their food, they might resist. This can cause stress for you and your dog. The transition should be a positive experience.

The graphic below is provided an outline of a slow transition over the course of six days. Use this as a guideline – some dogs may take to it quicker and others may take to it slower. Watch how your dog is doing and adjust the days as needed. Your dog may have a couple days where their poop is a little runnier than normal, this is normal. Within a week or so the poop should start to become smaller and harder which is normal for a raw fed dog.

Raw Dog Food Transition

4. START WITH ONE PROTEIN AT A TIME, THEN FEED VARIETY

To prevent overwhelming a dog’s system, I recommend feeding one protein at a time with zero supplements (with the exception of the ones listed below). This also allows you the opportunity to notice any potential food intolerances from the beginning. Think of this time as a gut assess & reset for your dog.

My recommendation is to start with CK9 Ultimate Beef , CK9 Ultimate Chicken, CK9 Complete Chicken, CK9 Complete Boar, or CK9 Ultimate Turkey feed for 2 weeks, then move on to the next protein choice. Allow about 1-2 weeks for each protein option.

Once you have offered all protein options, vary the protein on a regular basis to ensure your dog is getting as much nutrients as possible from their food.
Vary as often as you are able. It can be hard to do it on a weekly basis as your freezer situation might not allow it. So determine a plan that makes the most sense for you. That could mean every month you switch. Or you buy one protein at the beginning of the month and then halfway through another protein and then switch it up daily from there. Find what works for you, the most important thing is that over time your dog is getting a variety in their diet.

5. LEAVE SUPPLEMENTS TO THE END

There are two supplements I would suggest adding in from the start of your dog’s raw food journey. Those items are digestive enzymes and Apple Cider Vinegar. Digestive enzymes can be found here in our store and Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) can be found in the grocery store.
The longer your dog has been fed a kibble diet, the more support they might need to help restore your dogs natural ability to digest bones and get the most out of the food they eat. The truth is, feeding kibble throws your dogs digestion out of balance due to the higher starch content and the cooking process.

One affect that kibble has on your dog is that it causes their PH levels to rise in their stomach making it less acidic. Your dog’s PH should be around a level 2 in order to properly break down the bone they eat and better absorb the vitamins and minerals from their bone and food. ACV is one way to help restore the acid levels to a natural state. ACV has the same PH levels as when a dog is fed a raw diet from day one.

Below are Apple Cider Vinegar daily serving sizes based on body weight:

1 tsp for dogs up to 15 lbs
2 tsp for dogs 16 to 35 lbs
1 tbsp for dogs 36 to 84 lbs

How long you do this for is up to you. It could be just a couple of weeks, or you can do it for longer.

While a dog is able to produce their own digestive enzymes, being fed a cooked or kibble diet, limits the amount of enzymes produced. As dogs grow older their ability to produce enzymes is also reduced. Enzymes help break down their food into smaller pieces allowing them to take in their nutrients more efficiently. Supplementing with digestive enzymes will help set your dog up for success on their new diet.

If you are someone who has decided to feed raw mixed with kibble or a cooked diet, I would suggest supplementing with ACV and/or digestive enzymes for as long as you choose to feed that way.

Once you are through the transition period with the protein, you can start to add in more supplements. As with the protein, I believe it’s important to introduce supplement slowly to watch for intolerances. Watch for digestive upset as you introduce foods. Learn more about the top supplements we recommend here.

6. FOCUS ON FOUNDATION

Once you have completed your transition, your main goal is to maintain a balance of the foundational components of a raw diet. When balance isn’t achieved over time, that is when nutrient deficiencies can start to pop up.

The foundational components of a raw fed diet (the mandatory items that a dog must have every day) are muscle meat, bone, and organs. The bone in the diet provides calcium which works together with the phosphorus found in the meat. The organs are nature’s multivitamin, providing a wide array of natural vitamins and minerals. All the products in our store (with the exception of the tripe and bones) includes the foundational components for your dog.

In addition to the foundation, you can choose to add supplements. The two supplements I recommend on a weekly basis 1-2 times a week are fish/fish oil and eggs.

Fish provides Omega 3 which helps balance out the Omega 6 from the meat. Omega 3 and 6 work together in the body to create a balanced immune system. My recommendation is either sardines which can be found at the grocery store (make sure it’s packed in water with no other ingredients) or Green Lipped Mussel Oil.

Eggs are a complete protein source containing all of the amino acids your dog requires. Eggs are especially important if a dog has intolerances and can’t be fed a variety of meat – the eggs ensure your dog is getting all their essential amino acids when meat choices are limited. If you feed the eggs with the shells, the shells provide additional calcium.

Other supplements like fruits, veggies, oils, etc. can be fed daily or 2-4x a week. Depending on your dogs requirements and phase of life they are in. There are a wide array of supplements available to you. I recommend starting with the natural basics we recommend in this blog post. As your dog grows older, you may find that they require extra support.

Raw Dog Food Pyramid for Beginners

7. CREATE A SUPPORT NETWORK OF RAW FEEDERS & RESOURCES

Feeding our dogs, whether it’s raw or kibble, can be a challenge. It seems nowadays that there is a constant need to problem solve with the rise of food intolerances, chronic skin issues, weight issues, etc. Having a support network of people to help you navigate while also providing a sense of community can help ensure long term success.

Disclaimer: All information presented on this website is for informational and/or educational purposes only and based on our experience and those shared by our clients. These statements have not been evaluated by a veterinarian. This website is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease and is not intended to be a substitute or replacement for any medical treatment. Please seek the advice of a veterinarian for your dog’s specific health concerns.